Reverse front brake bleeding after extended lines?

To all with this knowledge,

It is time for my 2014 S10 std to have a brake flush, however, I want to install the RideonAdv extended brake lines with the ROX risers. With the new extended lines I have air in the system, but above the ABS module. Is it possible to reverse bleed the system from the calipers up to the master cylinder and thus no introduce the air into the ABS module?

Once I am confident the air is flushed from the line to the master cylinder, I will cycle the ABS module per manual. At this point, I can flush with a mity vac at the caliper.

Will this method work?

Thanks for your replies.

I'm not an expert, but I don't think there's a way to reverse bleed them, since there's no way to draw a vacuum at the master cylinder end of the brake system to draw tje air out, and no way to introduce brake fluid to the ABS module side of the brake system to refill the system as you're bleeding it. In any event, I don't see where bleeding them the usual way is any more difficult or presents additional problems. If you bleed them normally via the nipple on the caliper, you're going to pull fresh fluid into the system while the vacuum is drawing the air out, until all the air is gone. If there is any tiny amount of air trapped in the ABS module, cycling the pump should pull fluid into the module and push any air into the caliper side, and then you can just bleed the system at the caliper once more to get rid of any of the residual air that was trapped in the pump.

Hello,

Remove the old, install the new. Banjo bolt is 22Lbs

Fill up the reservoir and then pump the brake or clutch until you have no more bubbles and the brake/clutch is back to 100% operational.

If you have any doubts on this type of work we always recommend a professional mechanic do this type of work.

~TABASCO~ said:

Hello,

Remove the old, install the new. Banjo bolt is 22Lbs

Fill up the reservoir and then pump the brake or clutch until you have no more bubbles and the brake/clutch is back to 100% operational.

If you have any doubts on this type of work we always recommend a professional mechanic do this type of work.

Click to expand...

+1 ::008::

No I cant leave it at that, Tobasco has has stated all that is needed to do any work on the Tenere braking system and bleed it successfully ::008:: It's really wearing a bit thin now about all this black arts bollocks about bleeding ABS brakes, I done it on a daily basis for years on cars, and if you think the bike ones are any different to cars please explain your theory about the differences.
I prefer a vacuum brake bleeder as personal choice due to ease of use for one man operation, and the the time saved over doing it manually, the bollocks on here and many other forums has turned this task into "Rocket Science" And it's anything but!!!! All this misinformation can cause some dangerous scenarios, and possibly costly financially as well.
So to repeat Tobasco's advice! If you have any doubts dont do it!!!!!!!!

I had the fear of messing up the ABS with my diy bleed but after some research in the forums ( this is a great forum full of knowledge), decided I can do this.

Refer here for ABS Pump cycling procedures.
http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=17152.msg310152#msg310152

I use the One Man Bleed method. Youtube has a few videos how to make one and how to use. A fish air hose (transparent, 4mm ID) and a empty Soda bottle is all that is needed, besides the DOT4 fluid.

I did mess up by forgetting to fill the reservoir in time during the pumping bleed, and air gets into the system a few times. But it wasn't hard to get it out. Just fill and drain till all bubbles are out.

There was a crazy case on my buddy's S10 where his rear brake pedal has no resistance and no function after he had his lines bled. Some mechanic somehow introduce a lot of air into the ABS pump. Bleeding alone solves it temporary but the problem returned. Long story short, it took countless drain, fill, abs cycling, drain, fill, etc to get ALL the air out. It works great now. I am mentioning this just in case you encounter this nightmare, and know how to resolve it.

I have successfully reverse bled the system. The extended brake lines in place with no fluid. I specifically used a 60ml syringe with surgical tubing primed with new dot 4 fluid. Attached tubing to left caliper and slowly pushed fluid into a the master cylinder. The master cylinder had very little fluid just enough to see the air being expelled.
After about 50 mls, I bled the entire system according to manual with my pneumatic bleeder. Cycled the abs module twice and rebled system again.
So far no issues.
Michael

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

I've have done the extended top line install on both my bikes and used the burp method from TABASCO.
Simple and easy.

Why I DONT like the reverse bleed method...
All the contaminated fluid is at the caliper end.... when you reverse bleed, you are pushing that contaminated old crap further back up into the cleaner lines and maybe into the ABS unit.

On a bike without a delicate ABS Unit... well reverse bleed is not really hurting anything now.

I don't understand why anybody would bleed other than with a vacuum bleeder. I once bled my old Harley the classic way after rebuilding the calipers and it took forever to get the brakes feel right again. Now with the cheap Harbor Freight pump I do all my cars and the bike in no time and don't need to worry that they feel spongy or I have air in the system.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Is this the Harbor Freight bleeder you use ?
https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html

bnschroder said:

I don't understand why anybody would bleed other than with a vacuum bleeder. I once bled my old Harley the classic way after rebuilding the calipers and it took forever to get the brakes feel right again. Now with the cheap Harbor Freight pump I do all my cars and the bike in no time and don't need to worry that they feel spongy or I have air in the system.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

~TABASCO~ said:

Hello,

Remove the old, install the new. Banjo bolt is 22Lbs

Fill up the reservoir and then pump the brake or clutch until you have no more bubbles and the brake/clutch is back to 100% operational.

If you have any doubts on this type of work we always recommend a professional mechanic do this type of work.

Click to expand...

I would like to add to that simple procedure. Put a single "cross loop" in the bleeder hose at nipple. That way you don't have to worry about air getting back into the lines.