**Tire Debate** Mileage vs Safety. Hard Compound vs Soft Compound

B

ballisticexchris

Guest
Side note, WTF is up with every time I find an awesome, long lasting tire, the manufacturer stops making it and comes out with an "improved" version that doesn't hold a candle to the original one??
It's simple math and safety Eric. Long lasting tires have a hard compound. Hard compound equates into a tire that has less traction. With less traction available a low side is more likely.

Soft compound tires don't last as long. Soft compound equates into a tire that has more traction. With more traction you have a much better chance of keeping the rubber on the pavement.

A soft compound tire will always be safer than a hard compound tire if riding in equal conditions and skill level.

Riders such as myself want a tire that has traction. Lots of it! We don't care about the life of the rubber as long as it's safe. Manufactures are delivering the promise of a tire that performs. I applaud Mitas for stepping up to the plate and replacing the"E07 Dakar" with a tire that offers much better performance and traction at the cost of a few thousand miles. The original E07 wore like iron and had very beefy sidewalls. No argument there. OTOH it was downright unsafe when pushed in the sand or pavement. Also did not hold pressure worth a crap. With two equal riders under same exact bikes and conditions, a tire such as the TK80 will out corner on the pavement and give superior traction in the sand.
 

jeckyll

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 11, 2016
Messages
657
Location
Lotusland
I don't think it's all or nothing.

I think most people care about some longevity and some traction at least to a degree :)

For me it comes down to the kind of riding I'm doing and the kind of bikes that I have access to. There isn't just one answer there's always multiples.

It also depends on the kind of trip I'm going on for instance right now I'm getting ready to go to the Yukon and maybe Alaska. I don't want to have to change tires I want something that goes all the way there and back :)

However if I'm riding a sportbike or riding a bike in a sporty way, I want something that sticks when I'm leaned over and I have my knee on the ground and traction will always win out over longevity. But I'm riding differently.

One size does not fit all. And what matters to me changes depending on the situation.
 
Last edited:

EricV

Riding, farkling, riding...
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Joined
May 22, 2011
Messages
8,272
Location
Tupelo, MS
Chris, it's not that simple. Long lasting tires are not always hard compound. Radial hard compound tires wear out faster than softer compound bias ply tires, for example. Silica percentage, tread design, multi compound tires, carcass design, tread patterns and sipes, etc all play a part.

Safety you say? I beg to differ my friend. Safety is in YOUR hands, and has zero to do with tires. Ride within the envelope, what ever envelope you have. That's safety.
 

Madhatter

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2013
Messages
3,858
Location
buda texas
ok , safety has zero to do with tires, then why buy them at all …. the aluminum wheel should suffice …. have to be real easy with that throttle though ….. good tires are safe tires , have traction and have some life and life is about choices , and everything is some type of compromise (I really like that cheese burger but my pants will not fit tomorrow , of course I could eat lettuce ..... I prefer tight pants. ) we are all friends (mostly) let not our passions over whelm our common interest . ok im tired and I am rambling , if my tire gets 9 k miles and I feel that it handled everything that came its way , that's good …. if it lasted 3 k and I busted my butt , that's not good . the shinko 705 that I am running now has about 5 k ,the back tire may go another 2 k , the front another back tire before replacing.... not expensive but has worked well.... first front that hasn't cupped out... I would buy again.... k60's lasted a full 10000 miles never an issue , a tire I would buy again . eo-7 a good tire good wear but never liked paint strips (center stripe paint lines ) would cause a head shake when crossed at speed , would not buy them again.... what tire next , not sure but sure im moving to a 50/50 again..... I am interested in a 50/50 that goes 10 k, likes a wet road like bees like honey , super stable at all speeds , can handle mud ,sand , gravel , tar snakes , all grades of asphalt even asphalt that has been rain grooved to death ….. that's the tire I want ......my beer taste good and my pillow calls . good night guys.
 
B

ballisticexchris

Guest
Chris, it's not that simple. Long lasting tires are not always hard compound. Radial hard compound tires wear out faster than softer compound bias ply tires, for example. Silica percentage, tread design, multi compound tires, carcass design, tread patterns and sipes, etc all play a part.

Safety you say? I beg to differ my friend. Safety is in YOUR hands, and has zero to do with tires. Ride within the envelope, what ever envelope you have. That's safety.
While safety is in the riders hands, having a safe set of tires goes a long way in insuring our safety. And I might also add that the "throttle hand" has a lot to do with the longevity. I do understand that having a long lasting tire is important for some. Just not me. And let's face it, the knobby's I run are nowhere near as safe as a smooth tire if pushing on the pavement.

I'm by no means an expert on this subject. I'm just a guy with practical experience with many types of tires and bikes over the years.
 

jeckyll

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 11, 2016
Messages
657
Location
Lotusland
While safety is in the riders hands, having a safe set of tires goes a long way in insuring our safety. And I might also add that the "throttle hand" has a lot to do with the longevity. I do understand that having a long lasting tire is important for some. Just not me. And let's face it, the knobby's I run are nowhere near as safe as a smooth tire if pushing on the pavement.

I'm by no means an expert on this subject. I'm just a guy with practical experience with many types of tires and bikes over the years.
So, before I got back into riding (like 15 years ago), I spent sometime with car guys (did some auto-x, performance driving courses etc). And one of the topics is slip angle. And the idea that, especially for a novice, having a tire that 'lets go' in a predictable, gentle way, is more important vs. absolute grip which may let go in a quicker manner (or something close to that, it's been over a decade ;) ).

The point: There's more than just 'traction'. A predictable tire could be preferred to a tire that loses tracking in a more unpredictable way. And what is preferable may well depend on the experience of the rider.

A word on 'experience': First, everyone's a damn expert on the internet. There should be a quiz before entering technical & riding forums about how much people know about a particular topic. Like in this case:
-How many track days have you done?
-How recently?
-Do you ride offroad regularly?
-Have you entered any races?
-Performance riding courses (beyond basic bike handling)
etc.

Second, and maybe worst, if you imagine that this forum has a normal distribution of riders and talents, 50% of people here are worse than the average rider.

So when people discuss 'spirited' riding, what's spirited to one may not be spirited to another. And, so often we believe that anyone who rides slower than us is incompetent and anyone who rides faster must be crazy / unsafe / <pick something negative>.

IIRC the tire that kicked this discussion off was the E07. I never liked them (had 3, different versions, E07, E07 Dakar, E07+). Their edge traction is poor, and I consider them almost unsafe for hard, spirited riding. But for long, loaded road trips, they're OK.

Conversely, the Anakee III behaves like a motard tire, I can throw the bike into tight turns and give her hell. No drama, not even a TCS light. Ever.

But for long distance with offroading, it's marginal, though on dry stuff maybe OK.

I want something that sticks like the Anakee III in corners but works like a E07 offroad. They both last well.

Dont' think they have that tire yet though :)

Anyways, this got too long.

Bjorn
 
B

ballisticexchris

Guest
No track days ever. I'm a pretty mellow street rider.
Used to ride off road regularly. Not as much anymore.
I have entered a bunch of desert races from H&H to European Hare Scrambles. Won once, lost a bunch. Novice level
Only one real riding school. Jimmy Lewis riding school.
No high performance training. Just practice as much as I can.

Yes I agree a predictable tire is preferred. I know the basics of what to do when a tire loses traction and how to save it (most of the time). What I can't stand is a tire that gives no warning whatsoever. That's why I prefer a full knobby in the dirt. It has predictable spin and I know the limits of traction as well as anyone can on a 600+lb beast on slippery dirt/sand/mud.
 

jeckyll

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 11, 2016
Messages
657
Location
Lotusland
Mine is opposite. I tend to ride 'enthusiastically' on the street, push in the corners but limit my straight line speed.

Plenty of street riding, some track days on different kinda of bikes of my own and riding / trading with buddies at the track (ZX9R, Aprilia Tuono, KTM 390, BMW 310, Husky 510, hell I even took a KLR with Shinko Golden boys to a track day one time :D ). Never took the SuperT to the track, but mostly because I've had other bikes to take.

Road trips every year, typically with the goal to find twisty fun roads and ride them quick, even if fully loaded. Some offroading in with the trips when taking the KLR or SuperT. Have done things like the Lolo Motorway (super fun) but tend to do more solo riding so don't get too aggressive on a bigger bike.

The _key_ thing for me is that I know and trust a tire. I just replaced a Pirelli Diablo Corso Rosso on my Tuono, despite the fact that it had tread left, the edge was getting a bit 'squirmy' and inconsistent, the rear got very twitchy twice on a spirited ride. Tire got a bit old, maybe too many heat cycles.

Never ride on a tire you don't trust.
 

EricV

Riding, farkling, riding...
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Joined
May 22, 2011
Messages
8,272
Location
Tupelo, MS
We are getting away from the focus here. Most of us will never ride to the limit of the tires we have. If you're honestly concerned with the traction limits of your tires on the street, (not off pavement), then take a hard look at how you are riding on the street. If you're trying to out corner anyone, regardless of terrain, unless it's in competition, that's just juvenile. Public roads and trails are not a place to race your buddy or see how fast you can take a corner, even by yourself.

In respect to auto cross/solo II and slip angles, (yes, I spent several seasons running E Mod class), if you're slipping, you're taking the slow way around the course. You should know that. Fast is driving to the limit of your traction, not beyond.

This conversation is all about street riding and tire longevity, Nothing you can buy makes you a safer rider. Only YOU make you a safer rider. No tire you can currently buy for your Super Ten will require you to be easy on the throttle to maintain traction.l

Experience? Sure, I've only done a couple of moto track days. I've done a lot of car track days, solo II autocross and a couple of solo I races. Riding on the track is not riding on the street. Different principles and techniques. If you're still riding brake in, throttle out on the street, you are doing it wrong. That said, the track is an excellent place to teach a wide variety of skills. From threshold braking to slip angles and to really show someone how much traction they can get while leaned over. Nothing beats 32' one way of clean pavement with corner workers flagging hazards to allow you to find the full potential of yourself and the bike/car.

MSF type courses, I've done several intermediate level courses over the last decade. Haven't done one for at least 3 years now.

Dirt, no races, (wife has a bunch of trophies for hare scrambles and other dirt events), some minor off road riding on trails as a kid, I ride the odd forest road/fire road/gravel roads now. Comfort level varies with the road. I might be doing 70 on gravel in Northern Nevada or 40 on dirt in Southern California, or 25 in wet mud/gravel in Arkansas or 20-30 in sand in Utah. I'm not a great sand rider, Tires and bike depend on some of this, but all of those numbers are on 600 lb fully loaded bikes, FJR and S10. I don't take panniers off to go ride anywhere except to the shop for warranty work or a valve adjust that I didn't want to do myself. Rarely have I had more than one bike in the garage at a time, but I've owned everything from a '40 HD with a extended springer front end, Honda CX-500, Cagiva 650 Alazura, Yamaha FZ-1, FJR1300 and the Super Ten along with a hand ful of other odd offs that I didn't keep as long.

No moto races. Never saw the appeal in moto racing or watching it. I'd rather be off by myself enjoying the ride than battling it out next to other riders. Especially doing the same loop. I ride to go places. I rarely do day rides. I have no 'favorite roads' that I regularly ride. I ride 20-40k a year most years. Lifetime miles are probably only about 400k or so.

I've ridden 150cc scooters all around Egypt in 11 days. Pavement mostly, some sand and marginal conditions, full day of pouring rain included. I've ridden 400cc dual sports from Cusco to Machu Picchu in Peru, (as close as you can get before you have to take the train). That was paved from asphalt to cobblestones and dirt from gravel to full on mud, but mostly packed dirt with some hideous construction zones and fast moving water crossings thrown in for extra fun. One water crossing was pushing the cars and busses down stream with basketball size rocks bouncing thru the water. We waited 4 hours until it was only pushing the cars around and baseball size rocks were bouncing thru to ride the 14-18" deep crossing at that point. At least on pavement under the water. Road hadn't washed out, the river was just flowing over it due to massive rain the previous 9 days.

I've also ridden in a couple dozen endurance rallies. Motorcycle scavenger hunts of a sort where you're riding 1000 to 1650 miles in a 24-36 hour period as a minimum number of miles. Mostly in the Western US, so lots of gravel and dirt roads and widely divergent back roads. These are not interstate tire burners, but bonus locations all over the map that take you to odd little spots in out of the way places. Earthquake Fault signs in NV, the edge of the Salton Sea in CA, Mud pots miles and miles down dirt roads, Mountain passes on twisty roads, fast two lane highways, crossing Death Valley, then detour up a desert canyon road and over a mountain pass on rough dirt/gravel two track. You can expect every road condition ever to be experienced on these events. You can pick and choose too, but if you want the points, you ride to the ones with higher difficulty for the higher points. I also rode the Iron Butt Rally in '13, 11 days, around 10k miles for me as well as a 10 day MERA rally where I covered over 10k in the ten days and rode over 12k in two weeks from when I left home to returning home. On the same set of tires, btw.

Here's the thing. If you ride less than 10k miles a year, just politely bow out of this thread. You don't ride enough to understand what the conversation is about. Just put on what ever tires you like best and ride the way you like to ride and enjoy yourself.

When someone tells me they replace their tires every year, regardless of if they are worn out or not. You know, for safety. That pretty much ends the conversation for me. I sometimes go thru 4 sets of tires in a year. And that's tires that I'm hopefully getting at least 10k from, but not always. A shit tire lasts me less than 7k and I won't waste my time buying that tire ever again.

I am a PACE rider. I manage my speed with the throttle, not the brakes. I set my speed before the corner and maintain a steady speed thru the corner. I'm not slowing down that much on pavement. I'm not hanging off, but in the fun twisties I will shift my body weight, weight the pegs and use other techniques to maximize traction and maintain speed w/o moving out of my lane. I'm never riding 10/10ths on the street. Maybe 6-7/10ths max, usually less. I've never tried to see how fast I could take a corner on the street. That's what the track is for. IMHO, if you're dragging hard parts on the street, you're out riding your envelope. Can I do that? Sure. And yes, I've dragged hard parts on the street. For me that's a wake up call to take it down a notch or two.

Safety is about the nut behind the bars. Don't fool yourself into believing anything else makes you safer. Yes, there are things you can put on your bike that make what you like to do with your bike easier. That doesn't make it safer. It makes it easier for you to be safe, but it's still up to you to be safe.
 

Mak10

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2018
Messages
2,567
Location
SE Idaho
Going 70 down a gravel road on stock battlewings feels like I’m on marbles.

Going 70 down a gravel road on knobbies feels like Fun.

I’ll put up with a 4000 mile tire. The knobbies hold the asphalt much better than a street tire works off pavement.

Sad I can’t try a Mitas E07 Dakar as it seemed like a good compromise.
 

Sierra1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2016
Messages
14,963
Location
Joshua TX
Safety IS in our hands....and we need to know the envelope, and ride within the envelope....BUT, imo, the tires have much to do with that envelope. I had a great tire that lasted through one of our summers; traction and durability. The first cool day, I found out that the oils in the rubber that kept it pliable, were gone. It had became a brick overnight. The aforementioned envelope had shrunk to nothing. Too many variables to determine everybody's "best tire". Silly to even try and pick for other people. My preference, since I don't ride on a track, or with my hair on fire, is a tire with GOOD grip, and GOOD durability. I don't need BEST grip, or BEST durability; I don't think there is one tire that fits both bills anyway.
 
Last edited:

EricV

Riding, farkling, riding...
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Joined
May 22, 2011
Messages
8,272
Location
Tupelo, MS
Don't agree...
When we have to do a emergency brake, the tire is very importent. And here the "soft compound" normally (and I did write "normaly), is the best.
Bluntly put, get out more and ride. In emergency braking the tire is not limiting you. In the real world you have what you have, conditions, tire, distance and how you deal with it all. If the tire was the only thing preventing you from impacting something or crashing, you are very unlucky or not paying attention. And sometimes we are all just very unlucky.

This isn't the race track people. When was the last time any of you locked the front wheel up in emergency braking? Or braked to the point ABS kicked in on pavement with the front wheel? If your last emergency braking didn't involve either of those, you weren't using what you had to begin with.

Tires are just one slice of the traction pie, so to speak. The greatest soft compound tire might go to shit when the temps drop or in the rain. Putting race tires on your sport bike for the track makes perfect sense. Putting race tires on your street bike does not. We're not shaving seconds off your commute time and you need to deal with a lot more variables on the street. We all make choices that we feel are best for our riding style and needs. That's as it should be. Just don't confuse safety with tire compound choice or anything else you do to the bike.

I'm not suggesting what tire is right for anyone. I'm suggesting that soft compound tires are not inherently safer than tires with better longevity. Go poke some tires and tell me you can really tell that much difference between a "soft" compound street tire and one that's more touring oriented. Sure, they are different, but not by as much as some of you seem to think, in terms of actual traction on the road.

There is a reason I stopped using Shinkos. They don't meet my riding needs well. That doesn't make them a bad choice for others, just not a choice for me. By the same token I don't run PR anything any more either. My tire logs document the peaked front wear on many and the cupping on most, despite proper tire pressure and not braking into corners. And the rears just haven't lasted well for the most part. The GT versions are certainly better than the Trail versions.

This is as bad as a guy on one of the local lists a few years ago that wanted to know what style bike was the safest to ride. He started with the preconceived notion that sport bikes were safer because he perceived them to be more capable in maneuvering and braking. Agruments as flawed as I see here about tire compounds. He completely ignored the rider. No 'thing' is safe or unsafe. It's only when a human starts interacting with that 'thing' does it become safe or unsafe as it's used.
 

jeckyll

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 11, 2016
Messages
657
Location
Lotusland
First Eric, if you never want to ride in a spirited way, trade in the motorbike and go buy motorhome, or, worse yet, a Hardly Ableson. :)

These things are supposed to be fun, there's a time and place but there are times to have a good time. Being honest about your abilities, experience and judgement is key. Some people aren't safe at the speed limit, some are safe well above it. I define 'safe' as being able to react in an intelligent way to the unexpected.

And tires are important, they'r the only thing between you and the pavement.

@Mak10 totally agree that the right tire can turn a butt-clencher into a ton of fun. :) Though I often ride different front & rear tires, and it can be fun to have a grippier front and a slicker rear and drift 'er a bit in the gravel ;)
 

EricV

Riding, farkling, riding...
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Joined
May 22, 2011
Messages
8,272
Location
Tupelo, MS
Sorry to see you with hold your further comments. Braking distance. Yes, in the real world you get one chance. On the street, the difference between stopping distances with a (Insert your favorite tire here) and something like a K60 Scout or Mitas E07 Dakar is insignificant. If you don't realize that, you've not used tires at both ends of the spectrum. Or perhaps you haven't learned threshold braking?

When was the last time you ran out of braking distance? (anyone?) I've crashed, but I can't honestly say I've ever crashed because I couldn't stop in time since I was riding a bicycle at around 12 years old. And that was an avoidable crash, had I just not target fixated and had instead ridden around the obstacle.

Ditto for lean angles. I've dragged pegs on tires that give me 10-12k miles or more. The tire/compound is not a limiting factor in the real world.

You can argue predictability. You can argue lean angles on dirt/gravel. But those are about running at the very limit of tire adhesion. You shouldn't even be there in panic mode and if you find yourself in panic mode very often, you're really doing something wrong and need to evaluate your riding style.

Soft compound tires offer greater grip in a very narrow range at the edge of tire adhesion. Where you really shouldn't be playing on public roads. Knobbies vary, some are soft, some not as much. The K60s that people complain about being hard compound are a 50/50 tire. I've worn out 10+ sets of them and the only time I had one spin on a wet paint line it was literally brand new that day, hours old and in cold, wet conditions with me on the throttle as I changed lanes. Even then it was a non-issue. The E07 Dakar was even better in the wet than the K60. Yet people still complain about those too. Throttle control is a learned skill. If you're spinning the tire, (no, Dirt Dad, not you, you intend to do that), then you're not controlling the throttle.

@ jeckyll - I don't disagree with what you said. Too often I see spirited riders that are not able to deal with the unexpected. Deliberately dragging hard parts on a regular basis is not leaving any room for error. If you get even a tiny thrill of adrenaline from riding on the street, step back and look hard at that behavior. The thrill is because you lack the skills to KNOW you can make that corner at that speed. If you had the skills, you wouldn't get the adrenaline rush from it. That is fact. One few people will accept. I enjoy a spirited ride as much as the next person. I'm not scaring myself when I'm doing it.

If you're riding the same roads all the time, sell the bike. Buy a track bike and go to the track days. You'll have more fun and won't miss street riding any.
 
B

ballisticexchris

Guest
The tire/compound is not a limiting factor in the real world.
Well here is what I'm talking about. This guy rides the local area near me and is an excellent and skilled rider. And Kyle tests out a bunch of different tires in a bunch of conditions from pavement to deep sand to loose hard pack to rocks, etc.

This not about rider skill at all. It's all about the tire and how it performs. Completely unpredictable tire. No warning whatsoever. The camera does not lie. Perfect dry conditions and not riding aggressive at all:

 
Last edited by a moderator:
B

ballisticexchris

Guest
And BTW, My Michelin Wilds will outperform that tire everyday of the week on the pavement. My knobby gives warning and feedback way before a step out like that. Granted it's a DOT knobby. But it should not have slipped out like it did. That is what I would consider a horrible tire for street or dirt!! Just the tread pattern tells me it's unsafe. Buyer beware!!
 

Defekticon

Active Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2015
Messages
585
Location
Defuniak Springs, FL
Perhaps I am in the minority here but 70 on gravel seems excessive to me. Battle wing is a capable 80 20 tire. Went down Many dirt and gravel roads on them. 50 or 60 if it was packed was about the top of the mark for me.

Have not tried knobbys yet. That coming when I do the mid Atlantic Back Country Discovery Route.
As long as those dirt and gravel roads are dry it's fine. As soon as they get anything more than slightly humid they're worthless. I've done the Metzler Tourance NEXT, Stock Battlewings, and the E07 Dakars, I'm ready to try a real big block knobbie tire for awhile. I primarily ride dirt and sand around here in FL and the E07's (Old style) are just not the right tire with the center flat rib. It makes the tire very unpredictable in wet or muddy conditions.
 
Top