Crash Bar Shootout - What do you like, what do you think is crap?

Altrider crash bars. The strongest and best built in my opinion. Stainless DOM tubes, completely TIG welded by professional welders. I bought my altrider crash bars before I was a dealer and have beat on them. I’ve also witnessed friends fall about 200 times with Alt crash bars (riding a ST) with no damage to the bike.
These are a great part.

I personally would not buy Any crashbar that doesn’t allow easy removal and reinstalling of the right side cover and battery. And it seems very odd that many manufacturers don’t seem to want to make that information perfectly clear in their descriptions.

Cycledude said:

I personally would not buy Any crashbar that doesn’t allow easy removal and reinstalling of the right side cover and battery. And it seems very odd that many manufacturers don’t seem to want to make that information perfectly clear in their descriptions.

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SW Motech crash bars...check these out
SHUMBA

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Cycledude said:

I personally would not buy Any crashbar that doesn’t allow easy removal and reinstalling of the right side cover and battery. And it seems very odd that many manufacturers don’t seem to want to make that information perfectly clear in their descriptions.

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While I haven't installed them yet it is my understanding that the Altrider bars allow such. That said as long as I could take the RH cover off and muddle with fuses and access my jump start loom I'd be happy. Battery replacement is (should be) such an uncommon situation that I'd be okay with needing to remove the crash bars to accomplish this.

Altrider bars allow for right side cover and battery removal.

I will vouch that you can remove and reinstall a battery without having to remove the ALT Rider bar on the right side as I did it this past August.
When removing the lower, unpainted cover just make sure to cover the top painted cowling with a semi-thick towel or rag
(to prevent scratching the paint) and then you can gently lift the lower unpainted cover with a bit of angling to and fro over the painted cowling.
The battery removal also requires some rotating and angling as well.
It is kind of a Rubik's Cube type of an approach as you figure out by trying different angles/rotations with the battery and then you see that the gap between the bars is passable if you remove the battery lengthwise. Sorry if this does not make the most sense but believe me once you attempt it the puzzle solving aspect will come into play.

MFP said:

I will vouch that you can remove and reinstall a battery without having to remove the ALT Rider bar on the right side as I did it this past August.
When removing the lower, unpainted cover just make sure to cover the top painted cowling with a semi-thick towel or rag
(to prevent scratching the paint) and then you can gently lift the lower unpainted cover with a bit of angling to and fro over the painted cowling.
The battery removal also requires some rotating and angling as well.
It is kind of a Rubik's Cube type of an approach as you figure out by trying different angles/rotations with the battery and then you see that the gap between the bars is passable if you remove the battery lengthwise. Sorry if this does not make the most sense but believe me once you attempt it the puzzle solving aspect will come into play.

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Thanks for posting that very helpful information ! I happen to have a friend with ALT Rider bars and he told me the battery was not removable without removing the bar first, I will be explaining this to him.

Cycledude said:

Thanks for posting that very helpful information ! I happen to have a friend with ALT Rider bars and he told me the battery was not removable without removing the bar first, I will be explaining this to him.

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I posted up above that I got mine out the other day by loosening up the lower crash bar bolts. It came right out. You may have enough room without, but it only took a few seconds to turn them out some.

~TABASCO~ said:

Altrider crash bars. The strongest and best built in my opinion. Stainless DOM tubes, completely TIG welded by professional welders. I bought my altrider crash bars before I was a dealer and have beat on them. I’ve also witnessed friends fall about 200 times with Alt crash bars (riding a ST) with no damage to the bike.
These are a great part.

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I have altider bars too. I've dumped mine plenty of times and they did the job. But I see a lot of comments on bars bolted to the sump being a sin. Has anybody ever seen a sump broken from a crash?

Tenman said:

I have altider bars too. I've dumped mine plenty of times and they did the job. But I see a lot of comments on bars bolted to the sump being a sin. Has anybody ever seen a sump broken from a crash?

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On the topic of crash bars, I'm mounting SW Motech bars on my new '18 ES. I'd like to hear from someone who has installed the Motech bars themselves. Yes, I know there are perhaps better options for crash bars, but I don't offroad, and Motech bars worked out just fine on my Africa Twin by saving the day four times!!!

I've read the instructions on how to do it, but hearing first hand from someone out there would be appreciated. I do understand that it's very important to do just one at a time.
There's three connect points (bolts) the largest being at front. I plan to support the engine with a small Jack placed beneath the engine to prevent the engine from moving when I remove the large front bolt. There's a plastic bumper on either side of the bike. I believe that these will be removed, but not sure if they go back into place with the bars attached. I shall be using blue lok-tight to secure the bolts.
Appreciate any assistance you can provide.
Meanwhile, I will have a look at YouTube for any vids.
Thanks for your input and support.
SHUMBA


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I discovered yesterday that the Altrider bars have a hidden feature!



Bike is now over 4000 miles so the second service was due. Took the bars off to get them powder coated as my paint job didn't really stand up to rocks very well.

TREX Racing good bars, good price, good people!

drbikramjitsingh said:

TREX Racing good bars, good price, good people!

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The addition of any brand of crash bars is beneficial to both rider and the bike.
Depending on your riding style, road or off road or whatever. I'm not an off roader, and I chose the SW Motech crash bars. Easy installation, and I can remove the right hand panels to access the electrical components. The crash bar on the left side must be removed to access the fan radiator area. Yesterday I was out for a short ride and turned around in a gravel parking lot on a slope and yes, I stalled it and over she went onto the right side. The crash bar made perfect contact with the ground and paid for itself!
It's a big heavy bike. I'm not sure if I can pick it up on my own. A gentleman arrived moments after my drop and helped me pick it up, or maybe I helped him pick it up.
Turns out, he is a rider and has experienced several drops himself.
No damage, lesson learned, I'll avoid doing this again.
Get some crash bars!!
SHUMBA

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GSequoia said:

I discovered yesterday that the Altrider bars have a hidden feature!

View attachment 54447

Bike is now over 4000 miles so the second service was due. Took the bars off to get them powder coated as my paint job didn't really stand up to rocks very well.

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Right on my man!! Another San Bernardino rider. It's really cool to see other guys using these machines to their potential.

SHUMBA said:

The addition of any brand of crash bars is beneficial to both rider and the bike.
Depending on your riding style, road or off road or whatever. I'm not an off roader, and I chose the SW Motech crash bars. Easy installation, and I can remove the right hand panels to access the electrical components. The crash bar on the left side must be removed to access the fan radiator area. Yesterday I was out for a short ride and turned around in a gravel parking lot on a slope and yes, I stalled it and over she went onto the right side. The crash bar made perfect contact with the ground and paid for itself!
It's a big heavy bike. I'm not sure if I can pick it up on my own. A gentleman arrived moments after my drop and helped me pick it up, or maybe I helped him pick it up.
Turns out, he is a rider and has experienced several drops himself.
No damage, lesson learned, I'll avoid doing this again.
Get some crash bars!!
SHUMBA

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk

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I am getting used to the clutch as well, it is a lot different than my Vmax's modified (PCW Racing) clutch feels. I have stalled it numerous times so far but luckily I was not in a compromising position.

Darn, I like the simple approach of the MASTECH P/N 103.009 as mentioned earlier in this thread but they are out of stock until 2020...

The stock sliders work pretty good from videos of low speed tip overs I've seen, with the added benefit that work on the fairing area, removing body panels ect is easy.

U.P.rider said:

I am getting used to the clutch as well, it is a lot different than my Vmax's modified (PCW Racing) clutch feels. I have stalled it numerous times so far but luckily I was not in a compromising position.

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Yup, I stalled my Ten in a low speed parking lot gravel turn and TIMBRRRR!!!! Down she or, it went. Fortunately I had immediate assistance to bring the beast upright.
To negotiate a tight right hand or left hand turn its best to stand up on the bike and load the opposite foot peg keeping a fixed power setting or RPM in tune with a feathered clutch, whilst dragging the rear foot brake.
This requires a lot of dexterity and training and some tutoring from someone who is capable of this manoeuvre.

It is a rather difficult task to master. Perhaps there are additional methods to practice or learn the skills of turns in restricted areas, such as using an older dirt bike.
After all, who wants to drop their shiny new Super Ten??

Most riders I know of are straight line riders, that is A to B.
Anyone can ride a bike in a straight line, but real riders are able to negotiate tight turns and difficult situations. When novices come to a stop, they prematurely "duck walk" their bikes. In tight turns novices do the duck walk. I get great chuckles from watching these poor people.
Learn to ride, ride well, and ride safely
SHUMBA




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I had a friend checking out my bike today. He was looking at the scars on my Altriders. He was kinda shocked that he couldn't find any scars anywhere else. I told him I had quit counting drops at about 20 times. He said almost everytime he dropped his bike he had to fix something.

alt rider bars are on my 2012 tenere, look great never tested. as far as tight turns , like doing a U-turn , stay seated and weight outside peg use a little rear brake (dragging rear brake stabilizes and allows you to up the rev's to help control ) and look through the turn not where the front wheel is and you will follow. it is a riding skill that one needs to practice so find a parking lot and put the altriders to the test..... just a thought , but doing a u-turn while standing means you are going to fall from a greater height.