2013 super10 rear shock removal

flyby

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Hello

How difficult is it to pull the rear shock out? Can it be done on the center stand? Do we have to remove the exhaust pipes?

I am respringing it and the shop has quoted 2hrs just for the removal.

Thanks in Advance
 

RCinNC

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I've done it on a 2014, on the centerstand. You don't need to remove the exhaust pipe. There's an "L" shaped metal loop bolted to the right side sub frame rail that holds the brake line and ABS sensor running to the rear wheel; you need to unbolt this and move it out of the way. Then unbolt the lower and upper shock mounting bolts, and just pull the shock out of the frame from the right hand side. When you remove that wire retaining loop, it lets you rotate the shock so it comes out. It's really pretty easy.
 

flyby

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I've done it on a 2014, on the centerstand. You don't need to remove the exhaust pipe. There's an "L" shaped metal loop bolted to the right side sub frame rail that holds the brake line and ABS sensor running to the rear wheel; you need to unbolt this and move it out of the way. Then unbolt the lower and upper shock mounting bolts, and just pull the shock out of the frame from the right hand side. When you remove that wire retaining loop, it lets you rotate the shock so it comes out. It's really pretty easy.
Thank you for your response.

Sorry for the stupid question but I assuming, respring will not change the length of the shock but just the spring rate correct?
I want to make sure re-install after respringing will not make it harder.
 

RCinNC

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I've had two shocks resprung (a V-Strom and a Super Ten) and the new springs didn't change the overall length. The newly sprung shocks will fit right back into the same space as the old shock.
 

Don in Lodi

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RC, did you have trouble with the bottom bolt? On my '12 it ran into the cat, had to loosen everything for a little wiggle room. Put the bolt back in the other way. Is the ES a more difficult shock to remove?
 

RCinNC

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RC, did you have trouble with the bottom bolt? On my '12 it ran into the cat, had to loosen everything for a little wiggle room. Put the bolt back in the other way. Is the ES a more difficult shock to remove?
I didn't have any trouble with it. On the '14, I don't recall having to move anything to get at the lower bolt. I think the first time I've ever had to touch the exhaust was the other day when I was removing the swingarm. I don't have the ES model, so I couldn't say whether it was more difficult.
 

Don in Lodi

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That sounds right, thought I read that our two cats are shaped different.
 

flyby

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Thank you for the info, I think on 2013 the nut is 14mm as well, will check it out.

The torque specs is good info, thank you
 

bnschroder

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I can only assume this was 100 times easier than pulling it out of my ES, and even that was possible from the right side
 

flyby

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I can only assume this was 100 times easier than pulling it out of my ES, and even that was possible from the right side
It was super easy. Setting the preload to the lowest setting really helped as it brought the tire lower. I had to remove the brake line retaining clip in order to remove the shock from the right side but again it was easy.
 

Thrasherg

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Getting the ES shock out is best achieved using TNT.. so many hoses and extra bits/pieces!! I re-sprung my ES rear shock, but i didn't remove it from the bike, i just dropped it down through the swing arm enough that I could get spring compressors on, remove the collar, fir the new spring, put the collar back on and then lift it back up into place!! All done on the center stand.. Took about 90 minutes to change the spring.

Gary
 

Nasho279

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I've done it on a 2014, on the centerstand. You don't need to remove the exhaust pipe. There's an "L" shaped metal loop bolted to the right side sub frame rail that holds the brake line and ABS sensor running to the rear wheel; you need to unbolt this and move it out of the way. Then unbolt the lower and upper shock mounting bolts, and just pull the shock out of the frame from the right hand side. When you remove that wire retaining loop, it lets you rotate the shock so it comes out. It's really pretty easy.
Does the linkage move when you remove the lower bolt? I tried to push the bolt out with thumb no go, I'm worried about the thread what's the best way to remove the bolt?
 

escapefjrtist

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Does the linkage move when you remove the lower bolt? I tried to push the bolt out with thumb no go, I'm worried about the thread what's the best way to remove the bolt?
Yes, the rear wheel assembly will drop to the floor. When removing the shock, use a long pry bar under the back tire to wiggle it up / down to remove the lower bolt. For reassembly, use the pry bar to raise the wheel to line up the lower shock bolt.

~G
 

SparrowHawkxx

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Would a 24" pry bar be long enough? my shock has been leaking oil for how long I don't know but I can't lift the rear wheel by hand.
I use a 24" Wrecking Bar/Crow Bar. The flat tip on the end is angled up slightly so it works perfectly. Just put the angled tip under the tire and you can easily raise and lower it. I use a thin piece of wood under the bar for it to pivot on.

Does the linkage move when you remove the lower bolt? I tried to push the bolt out with thumb no go, I'm worried about the thread what's the best way to remove the bolt?
What escapefjrtist said, move the wheel up and down to relieve pressure on the lower bolt so you can remove it. If the bolt has not been removed recently you may need to tap it from the other side to loosen it then it should pull out easily when you get the pressure off the bolt.
 
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