What the inside of a bad ABS unit looks like

BWC · Nov 21, 2018

Is the idea to have the electroplater build up the pistons slightly oversized and then have them ground or turned back to the correct diameter?
I’m also wondering if the replating route doesn’t turn out to be an option could those pistons be turned down in a lathe and sleeves made up to bring them back up to the correct outside diameter.
I think your idea of drilling and taping the four raised points where the motor was originally swagged on, and using a spacer block and retaining band to hold the motor back on would work fine. It wouldn’t need to be a very deep threaded hole to hold the bands down and work.
All of this work falls under the heading of experimental, but often good fixes and repairs come from it that may be helpful to others in the future. Let’s hope for some good news from the electroplater.

blitz11 · Nov 21, 2018

You are the man! Thanks for sharing your efforts and your skill - very admirable.

Nikolajsen · Nov 21, 2018

MikeinNZ said:
Well I test rode it today... and got mushy brakes
The ABS worked perfectly and UBS worked well for a while so a bit disappointing.
It could have been trapped air in the unit so I’ll give it one more try tomorrow.

Out of 5 electroplaters throughout NZ only one has replied saying he can’t promise anything but wants me to courier them for so he can have a closer look.

Damn

. To all in this post.
Hope it is air

MikeinNZ · Nov 21, 2018

BWC said:
Is the idea to have the electroplater build up the pistons slightly oversized and then have them ground or turned back to the correct diameter?
I’m also wondering if the replating route doesn’t turn out to be an option could those pistons be turned down in a lathe and sleeves made up to bring them back up to the correct outside diameter.
I think your idea of drilling and taping the four raised points where the motor was originally swagged on, and using a spacer block and retaining band to hold the motor back on would work fine. It wouldn’t need to be a very deep threaded hole to hold the bands down and work.
All of this work falls under the heading of experimental, but often good fixes and repairs come from it that may be helpful to others in the future. Let’s hope for some good news from the electroplater.

Correct on the electroplating. Hard or industrial chrome and then ground back to original.
Your right about experimental, both times I have had it apart now I put it back in the bike and hold my breath as I turn on the key.
The first and second cycles of the ABS pumped zero pressure back to the lines and I thought I’d wrecked it.
The following cycles all felt normal though..
I better get up and go for a ride.

MikeinNZ · Nov 21, 2018

Still mushy brakes ... rode it down to the post office to get the Pistons away to Auckland and spent the first money in trying to repair this thing.
I re-measured the 5.6mm drill shank I used and it is 0.2192” minus any polishing I did so probably 0.2190”.
The undamaged part of the piston measures 0.2208” so I am 0.0018” to small.
It doesn’t sound like much but my last hope is 0.8% less diameter is not helping the seals seal.
I have asked the electroplater to add 0.001” to the finished size to allow for wear so hopefully this can be done.
I’ve come this far so may as well see it through.
I have bypassed the ABS unit and bled it up. I’m going to take it to work tonight rain hail or shine and try to get my smile back.

2daMax · Nov 21, 2018

If it is not trapped air, it could be a internal fluid leak within the rear ABS sector. Don't make sense for an external leak since a pressurized system will squirt out fluids rather than take in air. I saw a block diagram of how a ABS system works and there are a few check valves that may have not functioned and there is a reservoir that has a spring loaded plunger/piston. A leak at such a reservoir could be where the mushy feeling or if there are air trapped there, could also be the culprit. Just some thoughts. Hope you nail it.

Fennellg · Nov 21, 2018

I admire your efforts and I hope you succeed.

Fennellg · Nov 26, 2018

I case you get tired of messing with it or want to ride while you sort it out.

MikeinNZ · Nov 26, 2018

Thanks for that, have asked if it’s still available but @ 162,000 miles

that’s amazing!

Fennellg · Nov 26, 2018

It might be in better shape. Perhaps between the two you can make one good one.

gv550 · Nov 26, 2018

MikeinNZ said:
Thanks for that, have asked if it’s still available but @ 162,000 miles that’s amazing!

162k is a lot of miles for any motorcycle component, but just for reference the 2009 Kawasaki that I recently traded for a new Tracer GT had 425k miles on it still had the original Mitsubishi ABS unit and (gasp) original hoses and seals! It also has integrated braking with power boost and never gave any trouble, ridden hard and put away wet numerous times. However, I did replace and bleed the brakes and clutch fluids 4 times a year and even though the used fluid never looked that bad in the brakes they always performed noticeably better after the fluid change. The clutch fluid was always dirty even after only a few months.

Fennellg · Nov 26, 2018

MikeinNZ · Dec 11, 2018

Finally got a phone call from the electroplaters who quoted me $500 Nz to repair the 2 pistons. Seems when they know they are made from unobtainium the price goes up

Not worth spending that money so have shelved it for now.
In talks with Sallydog trying to buy the used one.

foosyerdoos · Dec 12, 2018

There is an ST ABS pump on Ebay UK for £ 600 or offer.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2014-Yamaha-XT-1200-Z-SUPER-TENERE-ABS-Pump/192742684583?hash=item2ce05bf7a7:g:BqgAAOSwlx9cAYHK:rk:23:pf:0

I bought an ST part off this supplier (side stand and switch) and it was in very good condition. Part was advertised at £50 and my offer of £40 was accepted.

Good luck.

Fennellg · Dec 12, 2018

Keep us updated. Hope you catch a break and this gets sorted out. I know it can be frustrating, one part you know more than you should about is keeping you bike from the road. That sort of thing drives me nuts.

Best of luck don't give up victory is with in your reach.

Fennellg · Dec 12, 2018

MikeinNZ, what year is your bike and how many miles are on it?

MikeinNZ · Dec 12, 2018

Fennellg said:
MikeinNZ, what year is your bike and how many miles are on it?

2010 and has done 70,000 kilometres. (44,000 miles)

Fennellg · Dec 13, 2018

Have you changed the clutch basket and cam chain tensioner ? I have a gen 2 2015 Es. I believe you are a gen 1. Some of the other guys who have been around a wile can verify, but I believe those are two things that should be addressed. They can create major problems. I would hate for you to go to all this trouble just to have your bike die from a foreseeable problem.

MikeinNZ · Dec 13, 2018

Fennellg said:
Have you changed the clutch basket and cam chain tensioner ? I have a gen 2 2015 Es. I believe you are a gen 1. Some of the other guys who have been around a wile can verify, but I believe those are two things that should be addressed. They can create major problems. I would hate for you to go to all this trouble just to have your bike die from a foreseeable problem.

Judging from the vibes around 3000 rpm I would say the clutch basket is original and the cam chain tensioner is on my to do list.

Fennellg · Dec 13, 2018

Well gad you are awares.

What the inside of a bad ABS unit looks like

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